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Sunday, February 28, 2021

In your goals … the place journey writers are craving for | Journey journey

Seashore, lunch and a nap within the solar, Ibiza

After I moan (more and more) about how determined I’m to go to Ibiza, I believe folks think about I’m planning some large rager in a superclub as soon as I’m off the Covid leash. And OK, sure, wonderful, after a 12 months and no matter of being trapped inside with my children, the concept of an entirely responsibility-free night time in a room stuffed with blissful, sweaty strangers doesn’t repulse me.

However that’s truly not what I’m speaking about once I discuss Ibiza. My favorite a part of the island is the north, the place it’s rocky and wild, however not within the wild-night-out manner. I really like spending days at little coves akin to Cala Mastella and having lunch at El Bigotes restaurant, or one of many less complicated locations like Cala Xarraca and Cala d’en Serra. On the different finish of the island is my favorite restaurant on this planet, Es Torrent, the place I stuff myself with seafood rice and spend the remainder of the day sleeping it off in a sunlounger, like a basking eel. From wintry, locked-down London, it appears like a distant, pale dream.
Hadley Freeman, Guardian columnist

My wild Turkish seashore

Gazipasa coves, on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast.
Gazipasa coves, on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast. {Photograph}: three Eyed Raven/Alamy

9 years in the past, simply days away from ending an eight-month stroll throughout Europe to Istanbul, I handed a seashore on the Turkish Black Sea, someplace on the wild coast between İğneada and Kıyıköy. I used to be exhausted, elated and endorphin-fuelled close to the top of that journey, and it struck me as one of the crucial fiercely lovely locations I’d seen: foaming white waves crashing on rocks, thick inexperienced forest behind, and a sea so blue it virtually damage my eyes.

There have been child tortoises masking the overgrown path I used to be on, which added to the magic. I longed to go down there, sleep on the sand, possibly even keep a couple of days, lose myself one ultimate time. However one other, extra wise, voice in my head informed me it was time to complete wandering and go residence. I didn’t cease there and I’ve regretted it ever since. On this pandemic, that anonymous seashore – and the wild freedom it represents – feels additional away than ever. However I do know it’s nonetheless there ready for me, with its child tortoises.
Nick Hunt, creator of The place the Wild Winds Are (Nicholas Brealey, £16.99)

Isolation with out menace, Knoydart

The old post house at Kylesmorar, Loch Nevis.
The outdated submit home at Kylesmorar, Loch Nevis. {Photograph}: Kylesmorar

If the climate is true – and in my reminiscence the climate is at all times proper – from the outdated submit home at Kylesmorar you’ll be able to see throughout the flat, sheltered waters of Loch Nevis to the black ridge of the Cuillins on the Isle of Skye. This was the view that I used to be fortunate sufficient to get up to for a magical week in August final 12 months, a small window of alternative between lockdowns to go to this spot on the Knoydart peninsula on Scotland’s west coast. Though a part of the mainland, it’s an island of tranquillity, a 22,000-hectare patch of deer and eagle-haunted wildness reduce off from the UK’s highway community and reached by boat (or 16-mile hike). Kylesmorar is gorgeous, however it’s the peace of the place I yearn for.

Whether or not it’s strolling mountain paths, swimming in lochs teeming with brown trout, scavenging seafood to eat with fastidiously rationed wine, or seeing the Milky Means create a foamy wave throughout the sky, Kylesmorar provides an opportunity to breathe. In a time the place silence and isolation is loud with menace, it could be a balm for the soul to listen to nothing however the hiss of waves and the occasional whistle of an eagle.
Matt Gaw, creator of Beneath the Stars, A Journey Into Mild (Elliott & Thompson, £9.99)

The start of the world in Russia’s far east

Baransky volcano on the Kuril islands, Russia
Baransky volcano on the Kuril Islands, Russia. {Photograph}: Yuri Smityuk/TASS

Paolo Cognetti’s e-book With out Ever Reaching The Summit is a strong evocation of the traveller’s enduring have to be stunned, and it has made me consider a spot I wish to return to when that is throughout: the Kuril Islands in Russia’s far east, strung like a necklace between Kamchatka and Hokkaido. Soviet historians referred to as them the top of the world however they really feel extra like the start: the haunting mist, the steel-grey ocean scored with pathways of froth, conical volcanoes wrapped in skirts of shimmering jade.

On the Ring of Hearth, a rare quantity of life bubbles within the gloom: a pod of killer whales, the beady eyes of an otter floating on the ocean kelp, the coral-pink ft of migrating seabirds which have travelled half the world. As I bear in mind a journey there in 2017, the Kurils start to unpeel inside my thoughts, taking me again to the sunken caldera hidden inside Yankicha Island, midway down the archipelago. It’s nightfall, and lots of of hundreds of crested, whiskered auklets swarm into the caldera, skimming the water to search out their protected place on an island nonetheless being fashioned. It’s a mesmerising, bewitching affirmation of creation: unusual, singular, about so far as you get on Earth from the harmful drive of man.
Sophy Roberts, creator of The Misplaced Pianos of Siberia (Transworld, £10.99)

A flaneuse’s reverie round London

View from Parliament Hill on Hampstead Heath, London.
View from Parliament Hill on Hampstead Heath. {Photograph}: Alex Segre/Alamy

Lockdown made London’s magnificence extra pronounced to me, as if the vacancy confirmed its face fairly new. One afternoon I drove alongside the Embankment and up a abandoned Regent Road, and it felt majestic, like Paris on a Sunday. It made me wish to discover town once more, to spend a protracted weekend alone with it: to go to the Courtauld, and the Nationwide Portrait Gallery, to see the silk-lined partitions and all of the faces like outdated associates; to stroll all the way down to the river, wander Rotherhithe and Bermondsey, and odor the darkish, secret tide-scent on the foreshore.

To wind by the backstreets of the Metropolis, Lincoln’s Inn, Smithfield. To St Bartholomew-the-Nice to sit down in on organ follow. A lunchtime live performance at St Luke’s. One thing raucous on the Windmill. To seek out my manner by Mayfair, Fitzrovia, Bloomsbury. The lengthy grass on Hampstead Heath. A pint on the Seven Stars in Holborn. A scoop of one thing from La Grotta Ices in Bermondsey. A visit to Liberty for haberdashery and fragrance. Dinner at Disguise in Mayfair. Studying on Hackney Downs. A quiet stroll alongside the towpath. Evening-scented jasmine on heat east London streets.
Laura Barton, whose e-book Unhappy Songs (Quercus, £16.99) is out in Might

The Galápagos, to lose and discover myself

Galapagos penguins at Bartolomé island
Galápagos penguins at Bartolomé island. {Photograph}: Robert Harding/Alamy

I lengthy for wild locations. I’m happiest in landscapes on the fringe of issues, the place animals outnumber people and the place nature is, in a phrase, epic. Within the wild, you’ll be able to each lose and end up. Most years, I search out such locations. This 12 months specifically, I wish to really feel unfamiliar floor beneath my ft.

I’ve been lucky sufficient to come across many species of penguin on my travels, however I might particularly prefer to see the Galápagos penguin, the one species that lives north of the equator. The Galápagos, 620 miles west of Ecuador, is the world’s most biologically intact tropical archipelago: “a paradise in contrast to some other”, as Sir David Attenborough describes it; a “little world inside itself”, as Charles Darwin mused. Its geographical isolation has resulted in distinctive natural world, and wildlife that has by no means developed a concern of people. I image myself face-to-face with a marine iguana, or a large tortoise. Maybe even swimming with penguins? I think about that there I might fairly simple lose and discover myself once more.
Kari Herbert, explorer and creator

Alaska to Patagonia: 19,000 miles of open highway

The Alaska Highway
The Alaska Freeway, which crosses British Columbia and the Yukon. {Photograph}: Bradley A Tombers/Getty Pictures

I might like to be alone in Alaska. I’ve by no means been, however I think about large skies, cool air, deep forests, the open highway. I want, greater than I would like, to go someplace that’s the reverse of plague-stricken England – so no low clouds or half-hearted drizzle, no information in English or some other language, no supply vans, no supermarkets, no zombie excessive streets, no canine walkers. I’ve picked someplace new as a result of this final 12 months made me realise the worth of experiencing various things. The northern finish of the 19,000-mile Pan-American Freeway is in Alaska. I’ll purchase a giant secondhand truck. As I drive south, I’ll keep in low-cost motels till the climate improves and folks cease carrying weapons. Then I’ll camp.

I’ll do hikes alongside the best way to stretch my legs. In Mexico I’ll eat properly, as a result of I’ll be fed up with American meals. I’ll give hitchhikers lifts in the event that they promise to not point out the pandemic or Donald Trump. Central America might be primarily seashores and sloths. I’ll throw the truck on a ship to get previous the Darién Hole, or promote it and use buses by Colombia, Peru and Bolivia. I’ll do one thing mystical within the excessive plain earlier than persevering with south to Patagonia. I’ll not learn any guidebooks. Ideally, I gained’t be again residence for a very long time – or ever.
Chris Moss, journey author

Germany for a sluggish boil within the spa

Heated outdoor bathing on the edge of Germany’s Black Forest
Heated out of doors bathing on the sting of Germany’s Black Forest. {Photograph}: Mauritius Pictures/Alamy

The story of the boiling frog is a fable in regards to the unwillingness of people to react to threats that come up regularly moderately than all of the sudden. Even so, in these sinister occasions I’m pining for the heated waters of Badenweiler on the sting of the Black Forest. A spa city the place people have soaked within the heat remedial waters since Roman occasions, it’s now residence to a contemporary spa complicated and some small accommodations and eating places.

After a hearty breakfast of impossibly healthy-looking breads, yoghurts, cheeses and native smoked hams, I’ll hike within the forest for a couple of hours, merely to justify the upcoming indulgence. The subsequent 9 hours might be spent limply staggering between quite a few herb-scented saunas, indoor and out of doors bathing swimming pools of various temperatures, and the bar.

Swaddled in bathrobes, giant Rothaus Pils in a single hand, steering-wheel-sized pretzel within the different, I’ll stare vacantly over the steaming waters in direction of the dense forest and darkish skies behind. No telephones, no garments, simply blissful people floating about blissfully unaware of the chaotic outdoors world.
Tom Kevill-Davies, creator of The Hungry Bicycle owner: Pedalling the Americas in Search of the Excellent Meal, and proprietor of the Hungry Bicycle owner Lodge in Burgundy

New York’s Decrease East Aspect

The Bowery, Manhattan, New York City
The Bowery, New York. {Photograph}: Busà Images/Getty Pictures

Winter jostling towards spring. Splash of East River in full swing under Williamsburg Bridge. I’m strolling tonight in direction of the Bowery. Visitors lights turn into apples bursting their greens, sending them dappled by automotive windscreens, every mild wanting straight at me, saying: “Now could be the second that was made for you!” And I do know past doubt I need to transfer – that no matter has been holding me again has been eliminated – as I slip by the hum of the visitors, by sirens and screeches and static. 100 completely different songs play by 100 completely different doorways – I lean up towards all of them.

Each floor, each crevice of the road, I smudge myself into. I rub my again towards partitions like a bear. I stick with the sweat within the air. A blue door opens to a sound that’s loud however smooth, muffled the place conversations cross – Bowery Poetry. A beer clinks open in entrance of me. The glass is chilly and moist to the pores and skin. The stage is lit and the present begins.
Elizabeth-Jane Burnett, poet

Sa Foradada restaurant, Mallorca

Paella for lunch at Sa Foradada restaurant
Paella for lunch at Sa Foradada restaurant, Mallorca. {Photograph}: Album/Alamy

It’s spherical about 2pm on a ramshackle wood deck jutting over the ocean. We’re dusty and blissful after the hour’s steep hike down a footpath from the coast highway to the tiny blue bay of Sa Foradada on the west coast of Mallorca, which is the way you get to this seashore restaurant in case you don’t have a yacht. The primary icy cans of Estrella have been snapped open, bread and alioli and pebble-sized inexperienced olives are on the desk. A few of the children have disappeared for a pre-lunch swim, however I’ll wait till later. There’s no rush; we’ll be right here for hours.

The musky prawn-head scent of paella drifts from the kitchen. We eat and chat and drink and watch the youngsters bomb off rocks into the waves and the posher clientele arrive on their boats. A Balearic seashore lunch is my blissful place. It could possibly be Ca’s Patro March, of Evening Supervisor fame, simply down the highway in Deia; Cala Bonita in Ibiza is bliss. However Sa Foradada is my final. (You don’t need to take my phrase for it – Yotam Ottolenghi eats right here, too.) Earlier than all this, my journey plans had been about new adventures. However now my goals are stuffed with the pleasant ghosts of summers previous.
Jess Cartner-Morley, Guardian affiliate trend editor

Aquatic remedy in Folegandros

The tiny Greek island of Folegandros
The tiny Greek island of Folegandros. {Photograph}: Hemis/Alamy

This island within the Cyclades is simply 12km lengthy and formed like a camel’s hump. One factor I’m wanting ahead to is spending a summer time night time underneath the bougainvillaea of Chora, its clifftop capital, ingesting a negroni and desirous about what I’d like for dinner. However the place on the island I’m most wanting to return to is one among its seashores, Livadaki.

There’s no highway to it, so getting there means not less than an hour’s stroll alongside rocky paths by a scrubby, Homeric panorama of drystone partitions and wild thyme. I’d be sure to top off on fruit juice and snacks from a store in sleepy Ano Meria (on the prime of the hump) earlier than setting off. It’s the hassle of the stroll that makes arriving at Livadaki really feel so particular. You chop down from the clifftop to a pebbly cove full of astonishingly clear blue water. There’s one thing profoundly therapeutic about swimming lazily out into the Aegean, over the darkish sea sponges, parrotfish, rainbow wrasse and shoals of tiny sardines.
Marcel Theroux, broadcaster and creator of The Secret Books (Faber & Faber, £12.99)

Peru – and a refreshed Machu Picchu

A llama staring down at Machu Picchu, Peru
A llama staring down at Machu Picchu. {Photograph}: Lionel Arnould/Getty Pictures

I’ve been going to Peru for greater than 40 years, and I’m wanting ahead to returning with renewed vitality when that is throughout – significantly as my Peruvian associates inform me the cloud forest space round Machu Picchu, having had time to refresh with none of the same old vacationers, is wanting beautiful.

There’s an awesome resort on the backside of the Machu Picchu hill, the Pueblo, the place you’ll be able to assure that day-after-day a cluster of uncommon hummingbirds might be feeding outdoors your door. The Unesco-listed ruins of Machu Picchu are extraordinary, however folks neglect that it has the bizarre distinction of additionally being a Unesco biosphere reserve, and the encircling cloud forest is teeming with uncommon orchids.

On the best way again to Cusco, I’ll cease off at one among my favorite little roadside eating places, Los Geranios in Urubamba. It has a sunny little hidden courtyard, with some melancholy huayno music taking part in and a menu that by no means appears to alter. I might be ordering chicharrones, the deep-fried pork stomach delicacy of the Andes, and possibly some tamales. After which ice-cream created from jungle fruits to observe. Heaven.
Hugh Thomson, creator of The White Rock: An Exploration of the Inca Heartland (Orion, £12.99)

Summer season solstice in Estonia

Estonia’s summer solstice
Estonia’s summer time solstice: the nation’s wildest, oldest annual celebration. {Photograph}: Ints Vikmanis/Alamy

On Midsummer Eve I’ll be in an Estonian forest, if the demons may be saved at bay. On my final, pre-lockdown, journey throughout japanese Europe, I dawdled by Lake Võrtsjärv, the place the rings of forest odor of resin and blueberry leaves. Tapering trunks glow luminous purple within the night mild. Contemporary breezes whisper by the treetops, tracing audible paths by the pines whereas, underfoot, billowy inexperienced hummocks of sphagnum moss cushion the forest ground. Estonia’s summer time solstice – Jaanipäev, when daybreak meets nightfall – is the nation’s wildest, oldest annual celebration. Households head to the woods, collect with neighbours, sing round bonfires on pebble seashores and sweat like swine in backroom saunas.

Then because the solar dips under the horizon and rises proper up once more, moms and daughters, children and folks bounce over the fires to ask in prosperity and drive away malicious spirits. These spirits have been too energetic over the previous 12 months, so this 24 June the fires will roar – for the brighter and better the flames, the additional away the fiends will retreat. And with their banishment, the bravest amongst us will streak down the banks and into the shockingly chilly recent water, to drift on our backs and gaze on the stars, hoping for a gentler, kinder 12 months.
Rory MacLean, creator of Pravda Ha Ha: Fact, Lies and the Finish of Europe (Bloomsbury, £9.99)

Excessive peaks, coral reefs and massive blue spiders

Dragon’s blood trees in Socotra
Dragon’s blood timber in Socotra, off the coast of Somalia. {Photograph}: John M Lund/Getty Pictures

I’d like to be in Socotra – an island within the Arabian Sea off the coast of Somalia. It’s a 12 months since I set foot on this fantasy movie set of an island, the place dragon’s blood timber dot the panorama, the persons are heat and welcoming and the politics are a multitude – as you’d count on in an remoted chunk of land that’s formally a part of Yemen.

There’s a lot I didn’t see on that all-too-brief go to final February and, having written a information to the island with the assistance of consultants and different travellers, I understand how a lot I missed. I wish to see the ocean’s bioluminescence at night time from the highest of a sand dune, to snorkel over one of many least-disturbed coral reefs within the Arabian Sea and to trek into the Haggeher mountains – that are ridiculously excessive (over 1,500 metres) for an island barely the dimensions of Cornwall. And I want to search out extra of the endemic species – particularly the jaunty chameleon and the superb blue baboon tarantula. Who is aware of when journey to Socotra will once more be potential, however I can nurture the dream.
Hilary Bradt, guidebook writer

The snows of far-off locations

The frozen Lake Baikal in Siberia.
The frozen Lake Baikal in Siberia. {Photograph}: Chalermkiat Seedokmai/Getty Pictures

Disadvantaged of my common winter journey to the Alps, I’ve developed an obsession with extra distant snows. Strolling the canine, I’m listening to Apsley Cherry-Gerrard’s The Worst Journey within the World. I’m poring over creator Caroline Eden’s recipes for Uighur noodles and Georgian dumplings. Now, having made brief work of Dervla Murphy’s By Siberia by Accident, I discover myself in Baltistan in midwinter, trudging together with her by snow drifts within the shadow of the Himalayas. Periodically, I break off to discover these locations on-line, noting with a pleasurable shiver that it’s -11C in Baltistan’s capital, Khaplu, the place Dervla and her six-year-old daughter take tea with the deposed Raja, or that Siberia’s Lake Baikal is frozen strong, however nonetheless common with Instagrammers. Final weekend, I even discovered myself investigating volunteering alternatives with the British Antarctic Survey. Assist!
Felicity Cloake, Guardian meals author

Albania on the path of King Zog

The Accursed Mountains, Albania
The Accursed Mountains, Albania. {Photograph}: Peter Eastland/Alamy

I used to be alleged to go to Albania for the primary time in 2020. I had been commissioned to write down a criminal offense novel set there within the 1930s, however then – Covid. In order quickly as I can, I’m going. All of the locations I wish to go to – the fashionable resort of Durrës on the Adriatic, the wild Bjeshkët e Namuna (Accursed Mountains) within the north and the province of Mat within the east – are linked to King Zog, who dominated the nation within the 1930s and stars in my novel. He additionally knew my dad, so it is a private pilgrimage, too.

The Accursed Mountains are a troublesome, spiky vary, residence to wolves, Balkan lynx and lots of of kullë, towers constructed to guard folks throughout blood feuds. Mat is often known as the Land of Kings. Albanian nationwide hero Skanderbeg was born in Mat, as was Zog. The son of a tribal chief, Zog was educated in my beloved Istanbul and survived an assassination try whereas giving a speech. Bleeding from two gunshot wounds, he carried on speaking for one more half-hour. I can’t wait to go.
Barbara Nadel, crime author

A large number of majestic seabirds in St Kilda

A puffin enjoys the view at St Kilda
A puffin enjoys the view at St Kilda. {Photograph}: Michele D’Amico supersky77/Getty Pictures

One thing bizarre occurred on this home throughout lockdown one. Our boys, eight and 6, hitherto solely in Match Attax, bought into birds. We hung feeders within the backyard, loved tits and goldfinches. Then – large pleasure – a sparrowhawk, additionally having fun with tits and goldfinches. We bought a e-book, binoculars, went to the park, noticed woodpeckers each inexperienced and higher noticed. One night time we heard an owl. Perhaps.

We’re uninterested in the park now. We wish to see extra birds, and views like the huge cliffs within the e-book, alive with seabirds. Can we go to St Kilda? they requested. I’ve been to this archipelago west of the Outer Hebrides and understand it’s not simple to get to. Additionally that it’s particular and as far-off – in spirit in addition to distance – because it’s potential to get domestically from the bloody park.

So, yeah, I believe we will. At some point we’ll cross the ocean – God we’ve missed the ocean, and house, and sky – lookup and marvel on the towering stacks, alive with one million gannets, petrels, shearwaters, kittiwakes, puffins. Puffins!

We haven’t informed their mum but; she needs to go to France, to drink rosé on a terrace. We are able to do this too.
Sam Wollaston, Guardian journalist

Tenerife – the wine world’s best-kept secret

Crisp white wine in the small mountain village of Masca
Crisp white wine within the small mountain village of Masca, Tenerife. {Photograph}: Irina Naoumova/Alamy

After I start to write down a brand new novel, I at all times sneak away to the solar of Tenerife, to permit the characters I’m dreaming up begin to come to life – and I’d prefer to be there proper now. In between scribbling notes and strolling by the ocean and writing, I’ll head for the wild hills and mountains to the north of this volcanic island the place the unique inhabitants, the Guanches, lived presumably way back to 6000 BC.

Within the 16th and 17th centuries, Tenerife was one of many world’s main wine producers – there are 5 appellations right this moment – so I’ll go to both Bodega la Haya, within the Valle de la Orotava, the place the vines are grown horizontally within the oldest identified methodology, or to Viña Zanata in Ycoden-Daute-Isora. There, in an inner courtyard fringed with palm timber, we’ll style crisp white wines and powerful rosés, served with bread and olive oil, recent tomatoes, slices of ham or manchego cheese, cubes of tortilla and the island’s speciality, patatas bravas with mojo verde. The right option to spend a day.
Kate Mosse, creator of The Metropolis of Tears (Mantle, £20)

Dream seashore, Zanzibar

Zebra fishes in Zanzibar
Zebra fish in Zanzibar. {Photograph}: Borchee/Getty Pictures

Ten years in the past, I discovered myself on what, to me, is the world’s most good seashore: a sliver of Zanzibar, miles from the gated resorts of close by Pemba island. At daybreak, the tide was low and seaweed-pickers splashed ankle-deep by the water, their silhouettes framed towards pink sky. However because the air warmed up, the water rose, and the solar rolled overhead, they slipped away, leaving the seashore abandoned. I sat on sand as white as sifted flour. Listening to nothing however the snap and rustle of colobus monkeys leaping by the timber, I might odor the smoke from prawns being grilled at my lodge, and waded into waist-deep water for a pre-lunch dip. Nature’s infinity pool, this strip of the Indian Ocean sparkled, miles of inexperienced and blue hues bleeding into one, as I half swam, half crawled by water so clear I might see the stripes on the fish darting round my knees.

Reaching a finger of sand the place crabs zigzagged out and in of holes, I sat cross-legged within the sea and appeared again on the seashore whose identify I’ll for ever hold a secret.
Monisha Rajesh, creator and journalist

A (very) lengthy stroll throughout England

Catbells Mountain in the Lake District
Catbells mountain within the Lake District. {Photograph}: John Finney Images/Getty Pictures

Motion. That’s what I’m craving most. Greater than desirous to whisk myself to a selected summit, seaside or Parisian cafe, I’m dreaming of the whisking itself: the mechanics of being on a long-distance, multi-day stroll to virtually any vacation spot.

As long as the getting there takes time, and means not being restrained inside a bubble or pressured to return to my very own 4 partitions every night time. Earlier than this hiatus, I had deliberate to take a sabbatical: to hike out of my entrance door and hold roaming throughout the nation till I returned, possibly two, three, 4 months later. That’s what I wish to do now. I dwell in Bathtub, so would most likely begin by following the Cotswold Means north, straight out of town into the chocolate-box hills.

Then I’d hold going – possibly stringing collectively the Coronary heart of England Means and Derwent Valley Heritage Solution to rise up to the Pennines, earlier than placing west into the Lakes. There can be a number of choices to be made with every mile. Daily completely different, versus day-after-day being the identical …
Extra data at Nationwide Trails, and the Lengthy Distance Walkers Affiliation
Sarah Baxter, journalist

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